LOCAL CLOTH BLOG
In progress
Part 1, more to come in the next blog posts.
"Wish the safe had floated away…"
Mary
"I love that safe Mary! Symbol of strength and perseverance and history! No it is immovable and unshakable!
Elizabeth
Below: The vault at Local Cloth.
My short story: No cellular, no electricity, no internet when we got home Saturday after leaving Tybee Island. Helene hit Tybee Island Thursday evening. We drove north noting the aftermath of downed trees. At home, we were very lucky because we had a house generator hooked directly to propane. All our food was saved and we did have power and thus water from our well. Our neighborhood all came together sharing resources and information and showers and water. Our main contributions were keeping our neighbors and friends clean and creating art with the neighborhood kids!. Susette Shiver
Local Cloth was not so lucky in the aftermath.
Local Cloth at 408 Depot Street, Asheville, NC after Helene came through.
Every artist vendor lost most or all of their pieces, including me. We are a non-profit and the value lost directly to the artist vendors was estimated at $110,000: merchandise and little pieces of our hearts. The resident artists lost their studios. The dye studio lost its equipment and containers full of donated reactive and acid dyes for cotton and wool/silk that washed away. The tables and chairs are gone. The magnetic induction hot plates and big pots are gone too. They might be someplace downriver by now. The water burst in knocking the windows and the door in and formed a turbulent rotating pool of water, mud, artwork, and furniture.
It was heartbreaking to miss the initial chance to grab and wash (at your own health risk, no immunocompromised folks allowed); at 1/8 tank of gas, we stayed put, others did wade in (!!!****!). Then the mold set it. Opportunity gone. Grieving artists.
Below: About a week after Helene. Items at a distance look salvagable, but mold had set in.
My lost favorites included my linen, hand dyed and silkscreened napkins. I think of Melanie Wildman’s navy and ivory finely woven cloths that I appreciate more fully now that I am learning to weave (luckily I bought several before the storm). I loved the beautiful handwoven jackets by Joan Berner. I took a felting workshop from her and made a piece that I treasure and that now carries even more memories, the before-the-storm time. Volunteering in the shop, I often appreciated the gorgeously hand sewn and naturally dyed linen tops by Melli Lonneman. I lusted after one top that was displayed with a silk scarf from another vendor; the top was not my size. We all love the gorgeous silk and cotton hand dyed scarves, and so much more.
Other loses were the Handwork Circle’s collaborative pieces which were especially meaningful. These pieces had been made over the course of several years. The Handwork Circle began just before covid and went almost immediately to a virtual, zoom meeting, the "V-Handwork Circle". In recent years, we alternate virtual with in-person meetings at the Local Cloth studio. Many more interest groups were subsequently founded. The Handwork Circle will be virtual every week in October (join us), and then perhaps in November and December we will meet every other week in alternative places until a new Local Cloth Studio rises in the ashes of the Phoenix.
Below: Collaborative project #1 created by members of the Handwork Circle in 2023.
Below: Collaborative project #2 created by members of the Handwork Circle. in 2024.
The whole studio and shop, buried in toxic, bacterial-ridden silt and mud: so many beautiful things.
National Nonprofit day is August 17, 2024. This year we wanted to celebrate by sharing more about Local Cloth’s impact on the community! Our vision is “A regional fiber system that is healthy, abundant and sustainable, where farmers, designers and artists make a living wage.”
Let’s breakdown the impact by the numbers!
In 2023:
105 - the number of new members who joined Local Cloth.
443 - the total number of active members.
13 - the number of new vendors who joined the retail shop.
59 - the total number of active vendors in the retail shop.
$135,115 - the total number of sales from the retail shop.
70% - the percentage of each sale that goes directly back to our local fiber artists and farmers.
89 - the number of workshops taught.
631 - the number of workshop attendees.
103 - the number of Interest Groups.
14 - the number of fiber artists and farmers who participating in our Spring Artisan Market.
26 - the number of artists who participated in the inaugural Twelve-by-Twelve Textile Show.
$1,200 - the amount raised by the first silent auction at the closing celebration of the Twelve-by-Twelve Textile Show.
6 - the number of supporting groups who contributed to the mission of Local Cloth: ArtsAVL, Buncombe County Government, the North Carolina Arts Council, a division of the Department of Natural and Cultural Resources, Fibershed, WNC Communities and The Community Foundation of WNC.
Our community at Local Cloth has continued to grow each year, and that growth puts resources back directly into our local fiber economy. If you want to be part of our community, become a member. If you want to support our work, donate now!
by Glyn and Will Melnyk, Chattanooga
This past June we fulfilled a dream and spent two weeks in the Shetland Islands visiting sites sacred to all fiber artists. We loved Uradale and Silly Sheep crofts, Jamison & Smith, and the Shetland Textile Museum. We decided to cap off that experience by attending Judi Jetson's recent fleece preparation workshop at Local Cloth's studio at 408 Depot St, Asheville, NC. We were inspired by Judi to build our own skirting table and to process the fleeces we received during her workshop.
Like many fiber artists, we only process a few fleeces a year, so we wanted something simple and easy to store. So here is a simple homemade skirting table for the occasional fleece processor, with material available from most hardware stores. The good news is that the frame and the folded sawhorses store flat against the wall!
The complete instructions are found below.
Ready to skirt our first fleece.
Thanks, Judi, for your inspiration!
SEPT 2024: CAPS FOR CANCER AT THE NC MOUNTAIN STATE FAIR
Let’s go team Local Cloth!!
Last year we formed a team of LC members and entered 26 hats in the Caps for Cancer exhibit.
This year, time is short (very short mea culpa)! Deadline for the hats to be entered on-line is Aug 23, so I will need your information about number of hats and what category they should be placed in just before that time (age group and crochet, knitted, or constructed, i.e. sewn). Here is a pdf of the information with my notes inked in.
I volunteer to deliver them to the Ag center Sept 2 or 3, 2024 and also to pick up our ribbons after the fair and judging is complete!!!
Please let me know that you are interested in/ or already making hats by emailing Susette!
Volunteer hanging up hats for the exhibition in 2023:
Patterns and suggestions of materials can be found at Knots of Love. Free patterns can be found many other places. Here is the blog from last year containing photos of our hats from 2023! If you like any of those patterns contact Susette who will direct you to pattern sources.
Caps for Cancer at the NC Mountain State Fair is posted online. The fair runs September 6-15, 2024 at the WNC Agriculture Center in Fletcher where the caps we have been working on will be displayed.
This competition event is in its second year at the fair. Local Cloth team hats will be judged this year for ribbons!! All of the caps will be donated and delivered to the Messina Cancer Centers of Western North Carolina.
Local Cloth, Inc.
408 Depot Street, #100
Asheville, NC 28801 828.774.5134
Info@localcloth.org
Copyright © 2012-2024 by Local Cloth, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Artists' work and images are property of the individual artists.
"I have been working for years to find folks from the Navajo nation willing to travel to the mountains of western NC to teach at the John C. Campbell Folkschool. This year is a banner year for me because it is going to happen twice! " Martha Owen
The distinguished teacher:
TahNibaa Naataanii tahnibaanavajoweavings.artspan.com
From her bio:
As a young girl my paternal grandmother gave me my Navajo name of: TahNibaa Atlo'iigii, which means "TahNibaa the Weaver". I believe it was her hope that I may continue the tradition of weaving in our family. After high school, I joined the U.S. Navy and my weaving ceased momentarily. As a weaver today, I am exploring with color and design elements. I am also a rancher, I raise the heritage breed sheep, the Navajo Churro. As a full time weaver, a mother, a daughter, a soon to be grandmother I am honored to walk a similar path my grandparents did."
Felt and Embellishment: Experiments in Wool and Culture
Date and Class description: May 12-12, 2024
Instructor: TahNibaa Naataanii
Skill Level: All levels
Explore hand and needle felting techniques to create bead-embellished wearable art or jewelry, bags, wall hangings, and more. Work with wool from the instructor’s heritage breed Navajo Churro sheep that grow beautiful shades of brown, gray, black, white, and tan, and combine it with merino in many dyed colors. See what happens and how these different kinds of wool behave in different combinations: Churro on Churro, merino on merino, and on! All levels welcome; some physical stamina required.
There is still time to apply for a scholarship.
check here: https://www.folkschool.org/find-a-class/felt-making/
Simply go to the Folk School website, look for- "Find a class", then "Felt Making", then "View Upcoming Classes" and scroll down! Click here for registering for this class.
Martha Owen, a member and participant in Local Cloth activities sends this year re-cap to all!
Dec 23, 2023
Dear Wooly Colorful Friends,
Today is one of the shortest days of the year and I feel like it is time for me to stop a minute and send you the season's greetings! I used to send out a physical annual greeting but now with the luxury of a computer to use, I send you Good Cheer! Yeah, like everywhere all at once. We all had a big year one way and another and I meant to send a few follow up notes for each class and adventure I was part of in 2023. Today is the day to start/finish!
Let see, sheep and wool and conversation, and laughter and stories, that is what it is always about for me. But also a pile of odd Martha Owen things for your interest. Find below information I meant to send along all through the year. If you have something to add and or ask again then send me a hello! Here in North Carolina at the moment it is bright and cold. What is cold you say? Well, 1-2 sweater weather plus sometimes a scarf and a hat and sometimes all that and gloves and wooly blanket to wrap up in! Oh, and big barn boots and wind breaker!
The list of interesting facts from last year and our time together starts with that flash of excitement, honest labor, the frustration of learning, the stress of travel and hoped for and looked for satisfying outcomes. And as we all know, it was and is good to be together.
Here are some of the odd bits I promised someone some time to send along. Read what you wish to read and pass along to anyone who might be interested. I am a student of every living thing. My personal policy is to give, to give, to give! So here you go if you are interested. You have been a great gift to me and don’t you forget it. ( Oh, but remind me when and where we met! So many lucky lovely friends now.)
I have been writing reminders on my lined pad, let's see:
https://youtu.be/QgP9LAGV8DQ?si=l5THOq_acgNGXTEwGXTEw What the Helly Aa? (Your guide to Shetland's Up Helly Aa fire festivals)
https://youtu.be/QgP9LAGV8DQ?si=l5THOq_acgNGXTEwGXTEw
What the Helly Aa? (Your guide to Shetland's Up Helly Aa fire festivals)
I met Zoe last year at the International Fungi and Fiber Conference in Port Townsend Washington. It was love at first meet up! But she fits into this year and next as well! We'll be welcoming her back in the Fall of 2024.
We chatted briefly at the “Anything Fiber Sale” Local Cloth https://localcloth.wildapricot.org about some spinning wheels the Overmountain Weavers Guild was selling that had belonged to Persis Grayson. I have since noticed that you are teaching Great Wheel Care and spinning at SAFF this year.We chatted briefly at the “Anything Fiber Sale” Local Cloth https://localcloth.wildapricot.org about some spinning wheels the Overmountain Weavers Guild was selling that had belonged to Persis Grayson. I have since noticed that you are teaching Great Wheel Care and spinning at SAFF this year.
Exchange Place Living History farm, Kingsport, TN has 3-4 extra Great Wheels we are offering for sale, for $150 each. They have all their parts and need a loving spinner toExchange Place Living History farm, Kingsport, TN has 3-4 extra Great Wheels we are offering for sale, for $150 each. They have all their parts and need a loving spinner to use them. If anyone approaches you looking for a great wheel I hope you will give them my contact information. Interested parties may call and leave a message at Exchange Place, 423-288-6071 or leave a message at exchangeplace.info with the contact tab, or write to my email.
And of course I was so pleased to spend a nice long time with my pal Elizabeth Johnston.
I really think this is enough to be going on about. As I think I mentioned it was some year for the little shepherdess. In 2024 there are a few things coming that I am already studying on. Maybe we will meet again soon?
Always and forever I must mention my home place, the John C Campbell Folkschool ( folkschool.org). I
Online: Lessonface and the Folkschool (folkschool.org/programs/online-classes/)
Home Grown: Fair Isle Knitting Starting with Color (Part B) with Martha Owen (Feb. 26-Mar. 1) Home Grown: Spinning for Fair Isle Knitting (Part A) with Martha Owen (Feb. 12, 14 & 16)
Home Grown: Fair Isle Knitting Starting with Color (Part B) with Martha Owen (Feb. 26-Mar. 1)
Home Grown: Spinning for Fair Isle Knitting (Part A) with Martha Owen
(Feb. 12, 14 & 16)
Please send a hello. This has been an all day visit here from this computer and as I mentioned many times, one lovely ambitious year! I will now go looking for all your email addresses and post a series of pictures on my instagram account @marthaowenwoolens and that will jump over to my Facebook account martha owen woolens. ( My daughter Annie Fain Barralon fainhouse.org set me up!) If you do those kinds of things, please ask to join the Facebook group called Martha’s Flock which a loving student created a few years ago. I faithfully promise that I will only ever ever write about sheep and wool there. If you know me VERY VERY well you might read something else but from here it is sheep and wool and gardens and angora rabbits and music and well it's a big life.
And too, come see us. The sheep say maaaaah and The John C Campbell Folk school says, Welcome aboard.
You have been a great gift to me.
Best Wishes in all things.
Martha Owen
******************************
On Sunday afternoon Nov 19, 2023 Local Cloth (LC) hosted a spinning party. It was actually the regular monthly meeting time for the LC Spinners Interest group down at the studio (408 Depot St, Asheville, Western NC).
I didn’t take a single picture at the event, so some of the photos you see are from other times. I had the urge to snap photos you see, but my hands kept moving to the spinning wheel instead.
Spinning Interest Group at Local Cloth (June 2023). Photo by Susette Shiver
My first spinning wheel. Photo by Susette Shiver
In preparation for the event, all the long tables had been pushed back to form a rectangle. Inside the rectangle chairs were arranged to face inwards, forming a large circle. Twenty two spinners assembled together with all but a few bringing spinning wheels. Unbelievably, of the 19 women spinning (one couldn't because she was missing a piece of her wheel assembly, and two didn't spin because they were the guest speakers). In all, only two of the wheels were identical: a small type of e-spinner. About 5 participants brought e-spinners and the rest brought portable wooden floor models, all different yet similar: wheel that goes round, tension to control the spinning process, and foot treadles to generate rotation. What is an e-spinner? Rather than spinning wheels with one or two treadles worked with the feet to generate the spin, the e-spinners rely on electricity: plug-in or battery pack.
The fiber colors were wonderful. Everyone had different types of batts, roving, rolags, or top to spin. All the fiber was hand dyed. I was plying yarn using the chain ply method, Beth spun art yarn, Lorena was using a long draw. Some folks were novice spinners, some lapsed spinners, and many were long-time spinners; everyone spun while chatting or listening.
Hand dyed fiber for spinning. Photo by Susette Shiver. The results of participation in the Dye Lab monthly get-together at Local Cloth.
When all were settled down, Judi Jetson introduced herself (instigator of the Spinning Interest Group, major mover of LC and longtime spinner), then everyone introduced themselves in turn. Finally, our guests spoke. Martha Owen from the John C. Campbell Folk School spoke about her teaching and roles at the Folk School and how she lives the fiber and banjo life in the country. Martha then introduced Elizabeth Johnston (shetlandhandspun on Instagram).
Elizabeth Johnston (middle) in Detroit area "wooly" gathering. Her pattern is displayed in different colors. (Photo from Martha Owen)
Elizabeth is from Shetland and teaches at the Folk School with Martha. In between teaching they often tour together giving workshops and lectures whilst spreading information via their works. Elizabeth has many personally knitted examples of traditional Fair Isle knitting. Sometimes she is laughingly accused of being too contemporary in her pattern designs. She brought to show us an example of a hand spun, dyed, and knitted Hap, a Fair Isle Allover sweater, and one of their Shetland fleeces. Wonderfully soft it was and full of lanolin (grease).
Click link here to see Shetland sheep and the scenery.
Elizabeth and others feeling a Shetland fleece. Photo from Martha Owen.
Shetland Islands. Photo link here.
Elizabeth hand processes the fleece, then spins lace weight yarn and yarn for her Fair Isle sweaters, hats, haps, and dags. She uses natural dyes to create colors, and tones of brown, grey, and white come directly from the undyed fiber.
What are the meanings of Allover, Fair Isle, hap, and dag? Illustrations and explanations can be found on Elizabeth's Instagram page:
Martha Owen wearing an Allover, click here.
Did you know that Shetland wool from Shetland is rather much finer (the fiber diameter is smaller) and softer in general than the Shetland wool grown in the US. This is principally because of the diet, genetics, and other sheep life factors. The fleece are much cleaner because of the lack of air pollution that can stick to fleece and cause dirt to stick. There is no dirt or leafy matter there, so-to-speak, since the sheep roam on gorse and the soil is peaty. The peat bits more easily fall away during cleaning and spinning, unlike other vegetable matter that catches in the fleece. The gorse sticks mainly to the belly and neck which is separated from the rest of the fleece. On rare occasions, skirting the fleece results in a handful of thistle (ouch!). The wind is strong, trees are rare, growing only in very sheltered spots such as adjacent to a house. It is windy, cold, and wet much of the time in Shetland. Wool clothing is warm and can be manipulated to maximize retaining heat by choice of spinning and knitting techniques. Spinning Shetland wool "in the grease" keeps your hands coated in lanolin, ...nice!
Enough for now, but I want to explore the differences between Fair Isle, stranded, Intarsia, pattern, and double knitting in the future!
let's spin!
Susette Shiver
The Virtual (V)-Handwork Circle Zoom attendees meet every 2nd, 4rth, and 5th Thursdays from 1-3 pm. Everyone is welcome to attend, just sign up so that you get the link! Susette Shiver organizes this portion of the Handwork Circle, but an overlapping set of folks prefer the in person comradery at the Local Cloth studio and the ability to touch and see handworks in progress. Ceil Jensen and Rebecca Norris are the mainstays at the in person meetings.
The zoom loyalists have a different set of advantages compared with the in person handwork circle. One major delight is the impromptu ability to run and get something in the house or studio to show and discuss.
Katya is producing these small detailed shapes for a larger project she is working on.
Tina embroidered a photo printed on cloth and is working on another. This one is sentimental--a photo of Tina and her brother she recently finished.
Ceil was showing us aspects of a priest's stole she is making for her book project. The design rests on historical themes including sculls which you can see just above her head hanging from the door. She is working from her small studio where she has collections of pottery and handmade items related to her book in progress. This book will have an extensive collection of handmade items illustrating the lives of her ancestral Poles migrating to the Detroit area.
In the handwork circle we like to talk about our ongoing creative and craft projects. Sharing them with our friends over zoom is satisfying even though the visual is less accurate than in person (see previous Handwork Blogs at this Local Cloth blog site).
I took a screen shot of Martha's project that is almost done. She later sent me a photo.
We share screens to see actual photos. We commiserate. We support each other. We critique our works. We save commute time and depending upon where we live that time can be considerable. It is crazy fun to meet up with a Zoom attendee for the first time in person! (we are a much less formal in our home settings compared with our "going out" clothes).
I am looking forward to this afternoon’s meeting!
Susette
Here is a correction to the initial version of this blog on SAFF! 9/19/2023
Don't be fooled by this link as I was:
https://saffsite.org/event-information/ where you see a link at the bottom to ...event-schedule/ where "coming in October" is displayed. That link was never updated
INSTEAD make sure you click on the "SAFF 2023 Information" in red at the TOP of the page. This is what you will see (below). Be sure to sign up for classes.
In the pull down menu you will see the correct links but they won't be correct in the boxed links lower on the page.
So many things to do and see. What to do first? It depends on what interests you most: classes, events such as sheep herding, demonstrations? Walk into a auditorium space and be knocked over by the grand, copious, extensive, unbelievable vendor displays of fiber for felting and spinning, yarns to knit and crochet, yarn shops moved lock stock and barrel to the vending space (it seems to me), rug hooking, weaving, hand made fiber items, tools for working with fiber, and so on.
I like to visit the animals and hear the sounds they make. Totally weird and amazing if you never have heard them. And of course, each breed of sheep or goat, for example, looks so different. How about an angora goat (mohair) compared with a Jacob conservation breed sheep (wool)?
As a knitting and crocheting enthusiast I have spent previous years at the SAFF trying out different yarns. I bought my first merino roving there with the notion that I might like to try felting. That's not the only possible new hobby that I saw demonstrated. At a spot where the vendor was working on an Australian Locker Hooking project, I found she sold all the necessary materials for joining in.
I have also established an ongoing relationship with vendors that don't live close by. I wanted more of a particular type of knubby cotton yarn that I haven't seen in stores and was able to order more.
Do you want to buy a fleece and start from scratch? This is a good place to shop and experience the array of choices.
Lots of other vendors sell finished products in addition to offering raw materials and you might fall in love with some beautifully knitted baby booties as I did.
Are you competitive? Enter the competition by clicking here. There are lots of categories to chose from.
*! Seek out the Local Cloth table which will have information on our non-profit organization centered in Asheville.
SAFF starts on the Friday; classes start early on Thursday (no retail or events events).
Note for the SAFF that at the Ag Center only gate 7 is open. On the Events page at the SAFF webpage you will find entry price and directions to the Ag Center in Fletcher where the SAFF fair is held.
Physical Address:
408 Depot Street, #100 | Asheville, NC 28801
Mailing Address:
30 N. College Street | Weaverville, NC 28787
828.774.5134 | Info@localcloth.org